By Dr. Mary Jo Almeida-Shore
New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2016 embraced new, at times unconventional, venues and eclectic designer collections as varied as the designers themselves, whose inspiration came from all parts of the globe.
Tommy Hilfiger recreated the Caribbean for his island-inspired show by transforming a bare NYC warehouse into an island oasis, complete with a beachside boardwalk that wound around an ankle-deep pool of water which models splashed through. A Tibetan monk stunned guests at the Hudson River Pier 26 in Tribeca, for Givenchy’s unforgettable runway show with the World Trade Center’s Freedom Tower as its backdrop on 9/11. The label commissioned artist Marina Abramovic to stage the dramatic show which paid tribute to those lost 14 years ago on that tragic day. Opening Ceremony put on a play, written by Spike Jonze and Jonah Hill, which starred Elle Fanning, Karlie Kloss, and Rashida Jones to showcase its spring looks and Marc Jacobs, never to be outdone, presented his “One Night Only” show in New York’s famed Ziegfeld Theater.
The more common trends included: white button-down shirts, among the most accessible and affordable trends for spring; skirts and dresses with high slits cut “up to there,” vibrant colors and island prints; 1970s styles; warm hues and common neutrals as well as monochromatic looks and lots and lots of stripes. Models donned little if any make-up and loose, care-free hairstyles in most of the shows. Some of our favorite looks for Miami’s year-round summer are highlighted below.
Womenswear designer Mara Hoffman unveiled her collection at The Gallery at Skylight Clarkson Square on Saturday, September 12. Hoffman’s spring 2016 collection was inspired by 1970’s Americana, specifically Willie Nelson and his 1978 rendition of “Blue Skies.” By filtering this theme through Hoffman’s lens, the collection featured original prints of stars and stripes, blue skies, florals and country wheat fields in trademark silhouettes such as wide leg pants, tie-front and cut-out dresses, midi length skirts, and jumpsuits. The palate included soft pastels, neutral tones, and head-to-toe whites and saturated rainbow hues, including an aura light print reminiscent of the psychedelic era of the 1960s and 70s.
Along with signature prints, beautiful embroidery and novelty fabrics shared center stage in the spring 2016 collection. Designs included stars embroidered on silk chiffon, a colorful landscape embroidered on twill, and wheat fields embroidered on gauze.
Yigal Azrouël’s show took place at the Dock, at Skylight Moynihan Station, combining timeless elegance with modern edge. Floral motifs, abstract prints, delicate lace, hand-crafted embroidery and intricate details like scalloped edging and jabot necklines celebrated romance and femininity. Azrouël incorportated modern minimalist design elements like cut-out shoulders, structured sleeves, framed panels, and tiered overlays. Dimensional layers and shadows were achieved through tonal coloring and contrasting effect — sheer chiffon paired with silk charmeuse for ease and fluidity while leather jackets and trim added a tough hint of cool and “confident, effortless sensuality.”
Custo Barcelona presented its Slow collection, celebrating the colorful, eclectic and unique personality of each individual woman, who has her “own rebellious style.” Muscular patchwork garments, dresses, coats, jackets, tops, tunics and pants featuring organic cuts inspired by ergonomics and puzzles, played on their muscular shapes, marked off with contrast stitching and gaps that emerge when they are joined, defying the conventional. The delicacy of the fabrics, such as blond lace and open knit mesh, in colors inspired by nature, such as: petal pink, emerald green, violet, white gardenia, violet, fuchsia, lime, lemon, tangerine and blue Mediterranean blend garments were prevalent throughout the collection.
Art Hearts Fashion
Bi-coastal fashion platform Art Hearts Fashion showcased a five-designer showcase at Vanderbilt Hall presented by AIDS Healthcare Foundation in association with FTL Moda. Art Hearts Fashion Founder and Designer Erik Rosete opened the shows with his Mister Triple X “Vortex” collection. This season Mister Triple X debuted a flirtatious metallic pallet featuring rich body-con dresses, shorts and the designer’s signature bunny ears. Zachary/Nathaniel was next to the runway presenting an inspired collection of dark hues, plunging necklines and leather features. Expert draping made for flattering silhouettes in the designs, expertly pair with sheer and leather.
Tarek Sinno’s rich color scheme of blues, reds and golds accentuated the feminine form with fanciful ornate detailing and unexpected structured features. Striking lines and intricate jeweling elicited excitement from guests and media. Designer Gregorio Sanchez enlivened the runway with bright pops of color and fine hand embroidery. This cohesive collection full of bold patterned skirts and romantic tops expressed a natural vibrant energy and movement. Cary Santiago closed the evening with a jaw dropping collection full of high drama. The cinematic designs are impeccably crafted demonstrating Santiago’s ingenious artistry. Singer/songwriter Kelly Saint Patrick entertained guests throughout the night with acoustic performances. Guests and celebrity models included Drew Barrymore, Chandler Parsons, Stevie Boi, Adriana Lima, Toni Garrn, Michael Haverly, Mame Adjer, and several stars from America’s Next Top Model.